Escentric Molecules Reviewed By A Beauty Editor Fan

I remember when I first tried Escentric Molecules 01—it was like nothing I had ever smelt before. Unique, fresh and a little different on everyone, this was the perfume that kicked off the era of ‘skin scents‘. Molecule 01 is still one of my top five perfumes and is in constant rotation on my fragrance shelf. Here’s why I think it’ll always be one of the true greats in modern olfactory experiences.

What’s the history of Escentric Molecules 01?

After years of discovery and experimentation, German perfumer Geza Schön launched Escentric Molecules in 2006 with two creations: Molecule 01 and Escentric 01.

Inspired by the synthetic molecule Iso E Super, Molecule 01 featured the lone molecule, while Escentric 01 also incorporated subtle notes of pink pepper, Amalfi lemon and iris. Interestingly, Iso E Super is a note that had previously been used in other scents, but as more of a supporting ingredient to more well-known traditional notes, rather than taking centre stage.

Escentric Molecule Molecule 01 Eau de Toilette

Escentric 01 Eau de Toilette

Schön took inspiration from chemistry and scientific research—he was fed up with the perfume industry as it stood: lacking in innovation and centred around celebrity scents and popular, commercialised scents.

The perfumer trialled a number of different concentrations of Iso E Super before getting it just right—something he knew only after a night out at a bar with a friend. The friend, who was wearing the latest version of Schön’s creation, was approached and asked about the scent she was wearing. This confirmed his suspicions that he had found the right mix and later led to the phrase ‘The EM effect’ being popularised among perfume buffs. Essentially, if someone chases you down the street to ask what fragrance you’re wearing, you’re doing the EM effect right.

Escentric Molecules was lauded at the time for offering something wholly unique and different. Not only did the brand celebrate the intersection between science, tech and beauty (a trend that continued to shape the industry for years to come), it also saw the start of ‘skin scents’… If we look to the likes of Glossier’s You and Phlur’s Missing Person, we can understand just how pivotal these scents have become to the way we consume fragrance today.

What does Escentric Molecules 01 smell like?

Interestingly, this unique skin scent is quite undetectable on oneself but noticeable to others. Some can smell it on their skin, including me, but it always smells just a little different on—and to—everyone. That, I’d argue, is the magic of Escentric Molecules.

As someone with synesthesia, I can often see what fragrances look like. I’ve always found both Molecule 01 and Escentric 01 to have strong visual properties; I see slate grey and clear liquid like gin on ice. It’s a very clean visual, which tracks given that this is a scent that represents simplicity and minimalism, as well as lab-grown synthetic molecules that hail from modern technology.

Both scents are notably crisp and offer a certain freshness; if you exclusively love a sweet or punchy floral, these may not be for you. But if understated style and sophistication are your vibe, Escentric Molecules will likely align with your taste.

While Molecule 01 is the simplest of the scents with the celebrated Iso E Super and nothing else, Escentric also features Pink Pepper, Amalfi Lemon and Iris for more of a woody, musky hit. Both are beautiful; I tend to lean toward Molecule for daytime, and Escentric for something a little more ‘dressed up’.

What other versions of 01 are there?

Since its launch in 2006, you can now buy a wide range of Escentric Molecules products—in fact, the brand has created up to Molecule/Escentric 05, spotlighting different single-note creations. These span from sandalwood to Ambroxan.

But most notable to me as a fan of the 01 pairing, is the expansion of the original line, which features scents that celebrate Iso E Super when paired with beloved ingredients such as Mandarin and Ginger.

You can buy most of them in both 100ml and smaller 30ml bottles, meaning they are great for travel as well as being part of your mainstay collection.