Beauty treatments that were once the preserve of the rich and famous have now become so normalised that having Botox, fillers and laser treatments seems almost par for the course in many circles.
However, this doesn’t mean they come without risks, and those involved in the skincare industry are still keen to highlight that you should be cautious rather than gung-ho when it comes to anything even minimally invasive.
Below, we spoke to doctors, dermatologists and skincare experts about the risks you should look out for, and how to minimise them.
Lip filler
One of the most concerning beauty treatments, according to Dr Nyla GP Dermatologist and Founder of Dr Nyla Medispa, is lip filler, ‘especially when done by unqualified practitioners’.
‘The biggest risks include vascular occlusion (when filler blocks a blood vessel, leading to tissue death) and overfilling, which can stretch the lips over time and cause long-term distortion,’ she says.
A conservative approach to lip filler is best, say experts.
As with any injectable, avoid going for the bargain (often unqualified) option when it comes to lip filler, and always start off on the conversative side, staying within the natural shape of the lip.
Rosie Green, You’s beauty director, says that with any cosmetic treatment it’s worth finding a practitioner whose aesthetic is similar to your own. ‘Some people love the Love Island look; for others, looking natural is the most important thing,’ she says. Looking at the practitioner themselves will give you a good idea of their preferred style, and they will normally have plenty of photos on their website or Instagram page to check out too.
Dermal fillers
‘To this day dermal fillers concern me the most,’ says Emily West, an Aesthetic Nurse Practitioner at Creo Clinic. This is not, she says, because they are inherently unsafe, ‘but due to the continued rise in poorly trained non-medical injectors.’ This can lead to serious risks, like vascular occlusion, infection, migration, and unnatural results.
‘Always choose a qualified medical professional who understands facial anatomy and can manage complications, not just someone who can inject,’ she adds.
As well as someone medically qualified, look for the ‘number of faces’ a practitioner has treated.
Botox
According to Bruce Green, Chartered Chemist and Founder of SOS Serum Skincare, correction procedures for botched treatments have cost the NHS £29 million last year alone. One of the treatments that can go wrong is Botox, leading to ‘severe complications such as infections, tissue damage and disfigurement.’
Again, the lack of expertise is a big risk factor when it comes to Botox. ‘In the UK, there are no mandatory qualifications for practitioners, allowing individuals with minimal training to perform these procedures,’ says Green. ‘Complaints about botched procedures have doubled in recent years, with 80% of cases involving non-medical professional.’
With injectables, Rosie advises looking not only for qualifications, but also the ‘number of faces’ a practitioner has done. ‘You want someone who has completed that procedure a lot of times,’ advises Rosie. ‘Botox is not one size fits all; they need to assess your face and its individual characteristics properly. As the saying goes, every action has its equal and opposite reaction, and this is true for your face. If you inject too much Botox in the crow’s feet, you might not be able to smile properly, and so on. Someone who has done a lot of Botox will understand the nuances of it.’ Experience has as much a part to play as qualifications.
Chemical peels
‘I think aggressive chemical peels should be approached with caution,’ says Dr Nyla. A chemical peel is a skin treatment that uses a chemical solution to remove the top layers of skin. The idea is that the new skin that grows back is smoother and can help with wrinkles, scars, and hyperpigmentation.
‘When done improperly, they can lead to burns, scarring, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, especially in people with darker skin tones. Anyone considering these treatments should always go to a highly qualified professional and ask about risks beforehand.’
Chemical peels need to be applied with care.
Rosie agrees, saying that chemical peels should not be undertaken lightly. ‘They have been used for so long – all the Hollywood stars were having them in the Fifties – so chemical peels definitely have their place,’ she says. ‘They are very effective at skin rejuvenation and collagen stimulation. However, with the medicalisation of skincare I’ve noticed people are using stronger solutions in less clinical settings. You need to do your homework and visit someone reputable for a chemical peel.’
Thread lifts
A thread lift is designed to lift sagging, ageing skin, and involves a plastic surgeon placing medical-grade thread under the skin to pull the skin into position. It’s one procedure that rings alarm bells for several of our experts.
‘One cosmetic treatment that makes me particularly uneasy is thread lifts,’ says Dr Emma Cunningham, Aesthetic Doctor and Founder of Dr Emma Clinics. ‘They often involve a significant financial investment, yet the results can be underwhelming and, in some cases, lead to scarring,’ she adds.
Dr Rishi Mandavia, Managing Director at Doctors Tatiana + Rishi Advanced Aesthetics agrees. ‘Thread lifts are definitely at the top of the list. They carry a significant risk of nerve damage, infection, scarring, and asymmetry, and they can even make future facial plastic surgery much more challenging. On top of all that, the results are often short-lived. There are usually better and safer alternatives available,’ he says.
Rosie says that she is ‘very wary’ of thread lifts. ‘They didn’t get it right for a long time,’ she says. It’s also often sold as a lunchtime facelift, but Rosie points out that it’s ‘a considerable procedure’. However, she does say ‘A few of the doctors I know and really trust say they have tweaked the techniques and that they are getting better. I would still practice caution though.’
