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Today’s Hermès woman is too busy to look back, Gregoris Pyrpylis, creative director of Hermès Beauty, tells me backstage at the autumn/winter 2025 show. “This season, she doesn’t have time to look around. She’s focused, she’s determined, she’s moving forward.” In practical terms, that meant last season’s fresh-faced make-up was replaced by subtly smoky eyes on models with 100-yard stares at the Garde Républicaine.

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Pyrpylis’s smoky-eye technique on the runway.

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It’s a look anyone can recreate at home, Pyrpylis notes, explaining that he used a trio of Trait d’Hermès Eye Pencils in Brun Écorce, Brun Bistre and Gris Graphite to achieve the look. “We smoked out the inner and outer corners for more of a structured eye, but left the middle clear save for some translucent powder, which stops the pigments smudging together.”

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“We have warm and cool browns, we have slate grey and deep black – so all the colours are kind of muted tones lifted from the collection,” Pyrpylis told Vogue.

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