Quiet luxury created quite a stir last year. Blame it on the Roys (of Succession) or Gwyneth Paltrow’s court-hearing wardrobe, but stealth wealth and old money aesthetic have become more than just a Pinterest board. This year, Paris Men’s Fashion Week saw a continuation of this trend. And leading this very aesthetic was Hermès, where creative director Véronique Nichanian showcased a collection that was understated, yet sporty and versatile for Hermès’ fall/winter 2024 menswear collection.

Nichanian’s playful take on an English countryside dressing contained a contrast of prints and textures with long leather coats, knitwear with classic argyle patterns and leather accessories that remain the core of the French luxury label. Tailored suits and outerwear formed a key focus of the collection with trousers that taper towards the ankles and wraparound leather coats and jackets, including the A-2 flight jacket, which are reversible and belted around the waist, all of which were made from calfskin and deerskin flannel. Materials like gum canvas and Prince of Wales check were used for double parkas, zipped overshirts and high-collar sweatshirts.

Layering pieces like cowl-neck tops, turtleneck sweaters and tube scarves added subtle hints of elegance and sportiness, while the muted colour palette of khaki, browns, pale purples, and mossy greens put the focus on the little details and the accessories.

Cashmere beanies and bucket hats in gum canvas gave the city-slicker appearance, that is very reminiscent of the (Justin) Bieber look. Almost every look was styled with a subtle piece of jewellery, like signet rings in silver and rose gold, long bell necklaces, bracelets, ear cuffs and brooches in palladium-finish metal, lacquered metal, and horn. The reversible tube scarves made the perfect transitional and functional piece of accessory while adding two calfskin and crocodile leather slim belts for one outfit was a cool styling choice.

A few subtle pieces that made a loud statement on the runway were the half-zip anorak in lilac leather, a pixelated knitwear print cardigan, the Haut à Courroies bags and amulet-like silver necklaces. Hermès showed that quiet luxury in 2024 is going to be a bit more playful, versatile, and practical.