I seem to have become known on these pages for my old-fashioned, some would say curmudgeonly, views about the latest kitchen gadgets. Where younger cooks rave, I scratch my head in bemusement. Air fryers? Nothing special, they’re just small ovens. Our Place’s “miraculous” Always Pan? Just a non-stick with a lid. Is there no end to the way people can be persuaded to part with good money to replicate equipment they already own?

So let me start by telling you that it comes as no greater shock to anyone than me that I find myself a convert to this summer’s entirely unnecessary must-have bit of outdoor cooking kit. Especially because, yes, it’s just a small oven, and no, it doesn’t do anything I can’t already