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The last work travel of the summer? I think so, though I realize it’s difficult to classify a trip to Wimbledon and Paris as work. But such, as a wise man in my favorite movie of all time once said, “is the business we have chosen.” I am now back in the office until my annual Greece trip working on T&C’s 180th September Anniversary Issue, and organizing my pictures—and my thoughts—for this newsletter. A lot can happen in two weeks: I got to see Djokovic play, had a Polo Bar Ridgeway margarita on Centre Court, caught one of London’s hottest plays, stared longingly at the fabrics in those Zurbaráns, finally saw the Calder at the Vuitton Foundation and Matisse at the Grand Palais, walked home from dinner at Voltaire at just the right moment to take in the light on the Pont Alexandre III, saw couture shows and high jewelry, and even had a moment to appreciate it. And yes, all with just a carry-on and an L.L. Bean x-large zippered Boat and Tote.
Now, for the jewels at hand.
The Best I Have Seen
Feeling at home at Wimbledon, thanks to Nellie and all the Polo Bar provisions, including those excellent Ridgeway margaritas.
-I often say going to Wimbledon is one of the most special things I do all year, and I realize I do many special things, which made me think about what it is that creates an exceptional moment these days. It was a good lens to apply as I approached couture and high jewelry. Is it about the people in the room? Obviously and of course. I think a sense of purpose is key: an indication that real thought was put into invites rather than just a desire to get them into seats. A bit of surprise always works: this year for the first time the Polo Bar experience was created in the Ralph Lauren suite at Wimbledon. The wonderful Nellie greeted us; the place settings felt like home, too, and there were those excellent pigs in blankets and lobster rolls on tiered trays. And yes, the Ridgeway margarita, which I vote as one of the best ever. I take mine skinny and with Mezcal and I got to have one watching Wimbledon. That was undeniably special.
Tradition matters, too. There is the famous Wimbledon tennis whites rule, which, like the right dress code at a party, makes us all stand up a bit straighter and gives us a sense of occasion. And there is no Jumbotron, which makes this internationally televised event somehow feel like a private party that you were lucky to be invited to. Above all, there is the sense of purpose that comes with excellence: sitting and watching this level of tennis with an audience that still feels appropriately and respectfully in awe of it. With all these thoughts swirling, I took the Eurostar to Paris. (It’s the way to do it. More adventures in transit below.)
Highlights from the high jewelry shows: Boucheron, De Beers, and Chanel.
-It’s natural that high jewelry presentations now share top billing with couture shows in Paris—their missions are aligned and the clients are all in town! What do I look for when viewing these of one-of-a-kind creations handcrafted by the most skilled artisans in the world? It’s not trends, exactly—though I do think certain stones and ideas that dominated the week will impact them. It’s more about exploring the possibilities of imagination and jewelry’s ability to match them.
Tiffany’s legendary new bird.
Is it possible to carve lapis and malachite into a profile brooch of Cleopatra? It is! (See: Van Cleef’s Egypt collection.) Can one exceptional opal make a signature bird a legend? (See: Tiffany.) Can you actually find an entire stash of morganites and use them to paint a necklace? (See: Boucheron.) Can a woman’s obsessions with signs and symbols inspire exceptional necklaces a century after she’s gone? (See: Chanel.) That this level of ambition and skill remains is remarkable to me—and reassuring. And it played into my musings on what defines the exceptional in an ordinary world.
Van Cleef’s Egypt collection.
-There were things to notice that may come to play a part in our everyday jewelry lives. There was an overall boldness in design—the scale was bigger, the necklaces longer, the cuffs wider, the colors wilder—that I greatly appreciated. I’m not a fan of timid jewelry. Hard stones like carnelian and lapis and turquoise and tiger’s eye made several appearances, as did aquamarine (a personal favorite).
Why do these things happen? Part of it is supply and demand—stones are natural resources and, by their nature, limited. If exceptional sapphires dominated one collection, they will rarely continue to do so because there are just not enough to go around at this level of jewelry. Also important to note, as many have: more companies are expanding into jewelry, which accelerates demand on stones, which forces designers to broaden their eye and palette. I actually think that’s a good thing. Nothing I love more than looking at a piece and having no idea what it’s made of. “Wait, what is that?” is my favorite jewelry question. It’s a great way to start a conversation with a piece that you love.
Try it and let me know how it goes.
Bead inspiration at Dior couture.
-I came home from Paris and took out some of my beads that I haven’t worn in years—specifically a strand of striped agate that Rebecca Selva of Fred Leighton found for me. It was the Dior show that made me do it.
Nikos Koulis.
-Sometimes you know what you need in Paris? GREECE. My friend Nikos Koulis’s new store at 26 rue Boissy d’Anglas feels like being at his apartment in Athens, minus those perfectly hand-rolled dolmades, but with his new collection of tortoiseshell acetate and diamonds that made me gasp—one of the few times I did that this week. In a word, it all feels SPECIAL.
Portrait Cuts
Those moments where art meets jewelry.
The Zurbarán show at London’s National Gallery is a must. You have until August 23.
-One of my survival mechanisms on work trips is to sneak in a cultural field trip. It’s something of a T&C tradition. In London that always includes theater (more below) but I could not leave the city without seeing the Zurbarán show at the National Gallery. I’d been obsessed with the Spanish painter since I saw his Jacob and his Twelve Sons series at the Frick years ago (the book still holds pride of place on my coffee table). The sumptuousness of the textiles in his work is well and worthily noted but the jewels that adorn them also deserve attention, the way light and shadow heighten their details. I sighed, loudly and often, during my visit. And then got to discuss it all with my friend Scott Pask (in town working on the set for the new Ben Platt show opening) over a great lunch at Simpson’s in the Strand after.
Perfect NYC Nights
I like to say this is why we live here because otherwise, even I have to admit, it can get hard. My plans this month.
Three great things about summer in NYC: Ragtime, Broadway by the Boardwalk, escargot at Marcel.
-Things do quiet down in summer in NYC—even for me—but as I walked to ABT at the Met Opera last Friday with my niece (you have a few days left), we talked about great things to do in the city in the summer. Go see Ragtime and Death of a Salesman before they both close in August, obviously, but also always check the Lincoln Center website (so much happening across that campus). And, now since their move to Madison, see what’s on view at Sotheby’s. Their galleries are always active: David Webb and America250 exhibits are open through August 16, and a special Botero show from July 22. Then maybe escargot and fries and fresh berries and cream in the garden at Marcel? Or at least a box of perfect pastries to go?
-Summer in NYC is always better when you remind yourself that this too is an island. The Broadway by the Boardwalk series at Hudson River Park helps! Theater performers take the stage for the next five Mondays. You bring your wine and Sant Ambroeus paninis.
A perfect day on the North Fork ends with dinner at Duryea’s.
-You could of course actually leave the city for a day or two. I’ve spent a lifetime of summers on the North Fork of Long Island. Perfect day: shrimp cocktail and fish tacos at Southold Fish Market (eat there or take out); afternoon at Beall & Bell and Lido with an iced coffee from Aldo’s and soft serve (vanilla with chocolate sprinkles) from the Creamery. Dinner at Duryea’s. Breakfast and lunch the next day at Silver Sands. Dinner at the Frisky Oyster (country salad, always).
Sticks and Stones
How a jewelry person organizes the random thoughts in her head.
-For as long as I can remember (or afford) I have bought myself a piece of Elsa Peretti for my summer birthday. Currently eyeing this lariat on a silk cord. You know how I feel about cords.
-How good would these mini colorful Cartier Clash hoops look with a classic Eres black one-piece?
-I’ve told you before about Beck, one of my favorite young independent jewelers. This blue topaz choker is a reminder.
-Another favorite? Jean Prounis. New ideas, old-school time-honored techniques. She came in to show me an excellent new collection but I always look at a jeweler’s hands. What are they wearing?!
–Claudette on lower Fifth Avenue has reopened and it feels like my favorite kind of place: a great neighborhood joint with excellent food. It’s not my neighborhood but the artichokes and steak were so good it won’t even matter.
-The necklaces at the Marc Jacobs show made me want to pile it all on. My friend William Li will say I’m just looking for an excuse.
-The day flight to London, always! At the Dorchester by 9 p.m. Room service from China Tang by 9:30. Sleep, then up trying to find tickets to 1536 (through August 1 but you should try). Riveting theater. Sheekey after, always.
-I took that late 8:30 p.m. Air France flight from Paris for the first time and I liked it! Gave me a few extra hours at my Plaza Athénée (and the view from the 6th floor balcony rooms) and got to sneak in a visit to the Calder at the Vuitton (through August 16) and the Matisse at the Grand Palais (through July 26 and have lunch on the terrace of Le Grand Café but maybe bring a fan!). Also, is perfectly cut fruit better or is it just me?
P.S. If you want to chat about any of the above, email me at stellenesgemsofwisdom@hearst.com.
X Stellene
Editor-in-Chief Stellene Volandes is a jewelry expert, and the author of Jeweler: Masters and Mavericks of Modern Design (Rizzoli).
