The ‘Royal Pop’ is here. This collaboration between luxury marque Audemars Piguet and Swatch—two iconic Swiss brands that follow completely different paths—has generated buzz, lines, and controversy around the world.
What was most surprising was that, instead of the affordable wristwatch many had dreamed of, it was a non-wrist-worn design with a lanyard-type hanging strap attachment. Nevertheless, with a total of eight models available, and a design that lives up to Swatch’s deep-cut ‘Pop’ collection from the ‘80s, demand has been high. Right now, the pocket watches—which retail for between $400 and $420—are going for thousands of dollars on the resale market.
In stores, all eight watches are displayed in glass cases, with design callbacks to Warhol’s infamous “Shot Sage Blue Marilyn” (1964). But enough of the preamble, let’s get into the actual watches.
The level of craftsmanship is high, especially considering the price. The most iconic feature of AP’s legendary Royal Oak is undoubtedly its screw-down octagonal bezel. Like with the Royal Pop’s case, this bezel is made of bioceramic (biodegradable plastic), a specialty of Swatch, all complete with brushed finish. The screws on the bezel are not merely decorative, created by embossing or painting; separate screw-shaped parts are properly glued on. The hexagonal edges and slotted notches also have sharp edges.
And the “Petite Tapisserie” dial, another iconic feature of the Royal Oak, is also exquisitely crafted. Not only are the corners of the finely raised squares granular, but the surface even replicates the decorative grooves that radiate concentrically from the central axis.
Another detail watch enthusiasts will appreciate is the sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on both the crystal and case back—something that we also saw in Swatch’s Fifty Fathoms collaboration with Blancpain.
The lanyard attachment is press-fit and easily removable. While three different lengths are available, these are sold separately as online-only accessories. Additionally, a stand that allows it to also be used a desk clock is available exclusively online.
It all begs the question: where’s the best place to hang it? Considering current trends and its 40mm size, the first thing that comes to mind is using it as a bag charm – although you’re just as likely to see it threaded through belt loops.
Of course, it goes without saying that third-party designers are currently in an arms race to create the definitive watch strap to go alongside it.
The adoption of the hand-wound Sistem51
In addition to the Royal Pop’s classic design based on a pocket watch, it’s also noteworthy that it houses the newly manufactured hand-wound “Sistem51” movement.
In 2013, the 30th anniversary of Swatch’s founding, a mechanical automatic winding movement made of 51 parts and assembled through automated manufacturing was introduced. That was the “Sistem51.” And now, a hand-wound version has also been released. Equipped with a Nivachron balance spring, which is also used in high-end watches, and boasting a 90-hour power reserve, its performance is impressive.
It’s also interesting to note that the Nivachron hairspring itself was developed in collaboration with Audemars Piguet, and is used in some of the brand’s models.
The design allows you to see the mainspring through the holes in the barrel, which also serves as a power reserve indicator. You can admire the new hand-wound Sistem51 movement through the pad-printed logo in a font reminiscent of the Royal Oak on the sapphire crystal case back.
The marketing strategy of gradually releasing information from the beginning of April, allowing fans to speculate about various possibilities, was an ingenious one. On social media, fans shared their predictions, followed leaks, created speculative images, and lined up on the release day. It was always going to split opinion—but its impact can’t be denied.
