There’s a joy in putting your hair up, whether it’s to add an effortless elegance, keep hair out of your eyes or simply to disguise the fact you’re overdue a shampoo. That said, tying your hair up can often either feel a bit too ‘gym-session casual’ or veer into starchy, 1980s cabin crew territory, which tends to look particularly unflattering on mature hair.
And that’s precisely why smart older women everywhere are swapping out scrunchies and claw clips for the French hair pin trend. It’s a simple, chic solution that always works, day or night, and looks both grown-up and glamorous but never overdone. It’s also a gentle updo option for mature hair which is generally thinner and more delicate with age.
The French pin is an effortlessly chic option for older women
What is a French hair pin?
A French hair pin is a simple U-shaped pin that you weave through the hair to hold it in place, explains Andreas Wild, senior stylist at Larry King salons, who counts Sophie Ellis-Bextor and Gemma Arterton among his clientele. ‘It works with the hair’s natural tension rather than clamping it in place, so the result feels softer and more effortless than using elastics or clips.’
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Why is the French hair pin trending?
It fits perfectly with the move towards understated, ‘undone’ beauty, says Andreas. ‘A French pin looks more polished than a scrunchie and more refined than a claw clip. It doesn’t overpower the look, it just elevates it. There’s a subtle, Parisian feel to it.’
It also requires very little in the way of hairdressing skill. ‘It’s one of the easiest ways to look polished with minimal effort,’ assures Andreas.
Why is it so good for older hair?
Unlike tighter updos, you won’t find yourself developing a tension headache within minutes. ‘It’s very flattering because it avoids harsh pulling around the hairline, which can highlight thinning or breakage. It’s also gentle on the hair,’ says Andreas.
How do you use it and keep it in place?
The key is to twist the hair first, then insert the pin against the scalp and weave it back through the twist, explains Andreas. ‘That’s what locks it in place.’
Another technique is to twist your hair as if you were putting it in a bun, then just slide the pin through.
A bit of texture really helps, as freshly-washed hair can be too slippery. For that reason, it’s a dream with ever-so-slightly dirty hair. ‘Slightly lived-in hair actually holds better, so it’s perfect for day two or three,’ says Andreas.
Wherever you are in your washing cycle, a great texture spray will give your hair ‘guts’ and ensure your French pin stays put. ‘I’d prep hair with Larry King Haircare’s new Ride or Die Texture Spray to give grip and hold without making the hair feel stiff,’ he says.
Does a French pin only work on long, thick hair?
The absolute opposite. While Instagram may be full of pinned-up, mermaid-length hair, this styling tool works even better on more realistic hair, which is less likely to be pulled down and out by sheer weight. ‘The French pin works on most lengths, from a bob down, and across textures,’ says Andreas. ‘You don’t need very long or thick hair; it can actually make finer hair look fuller.’
You can use it to take your whole hair up, or just do a modern take on a half-up do.
How do you keep a French pin soft and modern?
To avoid any hint of ‘doors to manual’, don’t make it too perfect. ‘Keep a bit of looseness at the crown and around the face, and gently pull out a few pieces,’ Andreas says. ‘A final light mist of Ride or Die Texture Spray can help add that airy, lived-in finish so it feels modern rather than overly set.’
