How Martin Katz Revolutionized Red Carpet Jewelry—and Beyond
Explore how Martin Katz went from vintage dealer to red-carpet jeweler, shaping Oscars’ looks, pop culture collaborations, and high jewelry.
Martin Katz
For over three decades, Beverly Hills-based jewelry designer Martin Katz has maintained a reputation for his discerning eye and commitment to craftsmanship. Kicking off his career in estate and vintage jewelry, he began to design his own pieces and ended up breaking the mold of the Hollywood red carpet circuit. In 1992, he became the first independent jeweler to appear on A-list celebrities gracing the Oscars red carpet, catapulting his brand to the world stage.
Meet the Author
- Hannah Militano covers diamond jewelry trends, the fashion industry, pop culture, and celebrity news.
- She holds a Bachelor’s degree from the Fashion Institute of Technology.
- As a journalist, her work has been featured in publications such as Editorialist, Carine Roitfeld’s CR Fashion Book, L’Officiel USA, Grazia USA, Coveteur, and more.
With a continued presence on the red carpet, Katz has collaborated with the unexpected likes of Motorola and Ray-Ban. He’s designed jewels for Madonna’s “Ray of Light” music video, and even crafted Adriana Lima’s debut Fantasy Bra for the 2008 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show. His work has been omnipresent, lighting up every corner of the pop culture arena. Dressing stars in diamonds, from Nicole Kidman, Kate Winslet, Angela Bassett, Jessie Buckley, and so many more, Katz continues to break barriers for independent designers to this day. Just this October, Katz was the only American independent designer to be selected for the Grand Prix de la Haute Joaillerie in Monaco.
Here, learn all about the allure of Martin Katz’s superb eye for design and his sparkling natural diamond jewels.
How Martin Katz Went From Vintage Jewelry Dealer to Celebrity Jeweler
Beginning his career as a vintage jewelry dealer, Katz was specifically drawn to the Art Deco movement in jewelry. “The vintage pieces that appealed to me that I was really focused on were from the Art Deco period. I love the geometrics, I love the modernism of it. I love the whole Art Deco period, from furniture to architecture, the Egyptian revival style during Deco, everything about it,” he says. “I just find it so elegant and fine, and just a vibrant feeling of good times. The jewelry just spoke to me.”
Katz even began designing his own pieces when he couldn’t find specific vintage pieces for clients. “If I sold someone a vintage bracelet, they might ask for a great earring to go with it,” recalls Katz. He’d conjure a vision in his mind, using pieces from here and there to create exactly what he was looking for. “I had too much respect for the jewelry to make a reproduction,” he says. So instead, “I made what I felt was clearly contemporary, clearly brand new, but had an old soul feel to it.”
He wanted the wearer to be able to mix his jewels with vintage pieces in a natural, symbiotic manner. “When I started working with Paris workshops, I got into a little more contemporary areas with the use of color and flow of motion,” he says. “The French are really great at that.”
As far as pro-tips go for purchasing vintage jewelry, Katz says, “Overall, if you can buy signed pieces from the houses, it’s a great collectible to have.” Though he notes some magnificent pieces are without an official signature. “I always encourage people to buy the best example and simplest design that they can. Simplicity is the hardest thing to design, but it’s the longest lasting, and you don’t tire of it.” Comparing it to time-restricted fashion trends, Katz quips, “We’ve all had patterns on clothing or things that we thought were really cool and funky, and then years later, you can hardly look at it.”
He advises, “If it’s a bracelet, look at the hinge, and look at the back of it. Is it beautifully polished? You don’t have to know a lot about everything about vintage to know when you’re looking at the good stuff. Feel the weight, look at the manufacturing of it, look at how the stones are set, the metal, and all the little elements.”
Katz adds, “I’d rather pay a strong price that’s the best there is than find a piece of mediocre that I can steal, because when the money is spent, all you’re left with is mediocre that never gets prettier. But if you bought what makes you the happiest, you forget the money eventually. At worst, you bought a future of value.”
How Sharon Stone Helped Make Martin Katz a Red Carpet Legend
When looking back on the early days of his storied career, Martin Katz pinpoints Sharon Stone as the star who opened the door to the red carpet. He explains that, at the time, the red carpet uniform typically consisted of an Armani gown and Harry Winston jewels. “The red carpet was principally owned by Harry Winston,” says Katz. “Every time you saw a beautiful dress and jewelry on the red carpet, it was probably Harry Winston jewelry.” He adds, “I was the first independent jeweler on the Hollywood red carpet.”
As a favor to Paramount Studios, Katz dressed the then little-known actress in luminous diamond jewelry for the premiere of her new film, Basic Instinct. “Well then, along comes this young independent jeweler, Martin Katz, and he ends up on the red carpet with Sharon Stone, who happens to have the biggest movie in the world, becomes the biggest star in the world, and Mark’s jewelry is then gracing the covers of magazines around the world in photo shoots with Sharon Stone,” says Katz.
After that, countless celebrities and publicists put Katz’s number on speed dial. “My phone started ringing off the hook!” he says. “Over the next few years, I was having anywhere from 20 to 35 celebrities on any one red carpet wearing my jewelry.” While that sounds like an exciting and heady time in his career, I couldn’t help but wonder how stressful that must have been. “It was very stressful until the kids came home,” he laughs.
Eventually, the publicity began to feel like a “double-edged sword” to Katz. Dubbed with the moniker “Jeweler to the Stars,” Katz preferred to be recognized for the beauty of his jewels, rather than by his high-end, high-profile clientele. “I wanted to be recognized for the quality of my work and not by virtue of who I associated with,” he explains. When it was time to pass the baton, he was more than happy for a new guard to claim the moniker.
How Martin Katz’s Most Memorable Red Carpet Moments
Kate Winslet Wore Vintage Jewelry From Martin Katz to the 1996 Oscars
Nominated for her role in Sense and Sensibility, a 20-year-old Kate Winslet attended her very first Oscars ceremony in 1996. The actress adorned a shocking pink corseted Vivienne Westwood gown with an ornate vintage diamond necklace from Martin Katz. “The vintage bib necklace was from the late Victorian era,” says Katz.
Nicole Kidman Wore Vintage Jewelry From Martin Katz to the 1997 Oscars
Attending the 1997 Oscars ceremony alongside her then-husband Tom Cruise, Nicole Kidman stole the show in her chartreuse silk embroidered gown from John Galliano’s first Haute Couture collection for Christian Dior. She tastefully teamed the Spring/Summer 1997 ensemble with Indian Mughal gold chandelier earrings, featuring natural rose-cut diamonds and dangling natural pearls, with red and green enamel and matching bangles.
Kidman and her longtime stylist, L’Wren Scott, reached out to Katz, who was still working in vintage jewelry at the time, while also creating his own contemporary jewels.
“When L’Wren first contacted me about that outfit, she thought she’d like to see something in ruby,” Katz reveals. “But as soon as I saw [the dress], I knew I had exactly what she should wear with it. I had recently acquired this truly spectacular and truly old Mughal set. The suite was a bit of a pride and joy of mine, and when I saw that dress, I just knew it was right.” When he presented Kidman’s team with the earrings and a pair of matching inlaid enamel bangles, it was the perfect fit —a look that remains one of the most memorable Oscar jewelry moments to this day.
He says, “When I showed L’Wren, she flipped. And now it’s one of the most iconic looks that ever hit the red carpet.” Kidman and L’Wren Scott worked together in a stylish collaboration for the ages before the stylist and designer passed away in 2014. “I worked with L’Wren a lot,” says Katz. “She had quite a dynamic nature to her. I loved her knowledge of style. She didn’t shoot from the hip. She really knew her game.”
Katz continues, “I was really thrilled and tickled with the suit for that dress. I never would have guessed that it would have done what it did. I don’t think you ever can. It’s always hard to predict.”
Courtney Love Wore Martin Katz Jewelry to the 1997 Oscars
Presenting at the 1997 Oscars during her press junket for The People vs Larry Flynt, Courtney Love wore an angelic white silk Versace gown that she decided to wear at the last minute. The Hole rockstar reportedly spent a lot of time with Buddhist monks ahead of the ceremony to help her choose which colors to incorporate into her look.
While they advised her to feature gold, Love went a different route, wearing a platinum and natural diamond lariat necklace from Martin Katz, selected with stylist Arianne Phillips. He tells Only Natural Diamonds that Love even had to sleep in the necklace, unable to work the clasp. Katz recalls going over to her home the next morning to help her remove the necklace.
Celine Dion Wore Diamond Sunglasses by Martin Katz for Her Infamous 1999 Oscars Look
Celine Dion quite literally turned heads at the 1999 Oscars, wearing a backwards white John Galliano tuxedo with a low-cut back, a matching asymmetrical fedora, and natural diamond-embellished sunglasses. Critics deemed the ensemble worthy of Worst Dressed Lists at the time, but now, it’s considered one of the most iconic fashion moments in the history of the Academy Awards. Nominated for Best Original Song, “The Prayer,” she performed during the ceremony later that evening.
While there was a lot to look at, Dion’s bejeweled sunglasses truly broke the mold. Katz recalls the ensemble was, “not the biggest hit, but the sunglasses stood out.” Ray Ban commissioned Martin Katz to design the shades. He implemented motifs from his Flora and Fauna collection. As Katz remembers, Ray-Ban approached him after he collaborated with Motorola on a bedazzled rendition of the StarTAC flip phone that Angela Bassett wore on the red carpet, hanging from a silk cord. Katz then created three different pairs of diamond sunglasses for Ray-Ban before they decided upon a celebrity sponsor. He still has one, while the others were auctioned off to benefit the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation.
Adriana Lima Wore the 2008 Victoria’s Secret Fantasy Bra By Martin Katz
Victoria’s Secret veteran, Adriana Lima, wore her first Fantasy Bra during the 2008 fashion show. Designed by Martin Katz, the “Black Diamond Fantasy” Miracle Bra was embellished with nearly 3,900 gems, including 3,575 black diamonds, about 120 one-carat round white diamonds, and 34 rubies. Two black diamond drops dangled from the center of the bra, weighing in at 100 carats. Valued at $5 million, the total weight of the bra was 1,500 carats. The model strutted down the runway in her Fantasy Bra, paired with massive, feathered angel wings, a sheer black lacey bottom, classic black opera gloves, and a diamond bracelet on her wrist.
“Black diamonds had just begun to capture the imagination of collectors and designers,” recalls Katz. “There had never been a VS Diamond Bra made using this gemstone. For me, they embodied boldness, power, and allure — exactly the kind of energy we wanted for Adriana Lima and that particular Fantasy Bra. It was about creating something daring and unforgettable. What better way to showcase nearly 3,600 black diamonds than on the Victoria’s Secret ‘Black Diamond’ Fantasy Miracle Bra — and designing it for a gorgeous supermodel was hardly a letdown either.”
Katz says that the creative process began with sketches and selecting stones that embodied “both beauty and drama.” He says, “Every white diamond, ruby, and black diamond was carefully hand-set with the same level of craftsmanship I apply to my high jewelry pieces. What made it unique was the scale —the challenge was blending fantasy with precise engineering, so it was wearable and spectacular under the runway lights.”
The jewelry designer went on to praise his model and muse. “Adriana was a dream collaborator,” he says. “She had the beauty and confidence to bring the piece to life, and she was so excited to wear it. I always say a jewel isn’t complete until it’s worn, and Adriana truly transformed the Fantasy Bra from a jeweled object into a living work of art.
Martin Katz’s Expert Advice on Wedding Jewelry and Engagement Rings
Far beyond the red carpet, Martin Katz has accessorized many a bejeweled bride with the perfect diamonds for her big day. As we know, not many treasure a diamond earring quite like Kim Kardashian (see season 6 of Keeping Up with the Kardashians). Katz provided Kardashian with stunning Tobey diamond studs for her lavish 2014 wedding to Kanye West in Florence, Italy. The diamond stud earrings were reportedly a gift from West.
Katz is also responsible for Sofia Richie Grainge’s viral diamond eternity band she wore on her wedding day. Crafted from a custom-cut collection of Asscher-cut diamonds and set in platinum, the classic band is a timeless treasure.
“For the bride, I always say go for more minimalistic-looking jewelry. The dress and your face should be the focal point. Let the jewelry be a small accent,” advises Katz. As far as diamond engagement rings go, Katz has been working on plenty of rings with elongated diamond cuts. “Lately, I’ve been doing elongated cushions, radiant, ovals, and moval diamonds,” he explains. “I’ve also been making several three-stone rings,” with elongated cuts like ovals.
Elongated diamond cuts have been getting a lot of love lately for two main reasons. First, elongated shapes often appear larger than other diamonds of the same carat weight because their length draws the eye along the finger. Second, elongated stones naturally flatter the hand, creating an elegant, lengthening effect. Whether someone wants a soft and romantic shape or a bold, architectural look, there is an elongated diamond cut to suit. They’ve received countless celebrity stamps of approval from the likes of Taylor Swift, Hailey Bieber, Sofia Richie, and more.
Why the Grand Prix de la Haute Joaillerie Was a “Pinch Me” Moment for Martin Katz
Beneath the dazzling chandeliers of the legendary Salle des Étoiles, Monaco hosted the very first edition of the Grand Prix de la Haute Joaillerie (GPHJ) — an unprecedented event dedicated to excellence, creativity, and the savoir-faire of the world’s greatest jewelry houses.
Designed as the jewelry world’s counterpart to major watchmaking or film awards, the Grand Prix brought together the most prestigious names in the field: Boucheron, Bulgari, Chopard, Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Messika, Tiffany & Co., Buccellati, Anna Hu, Dolce & Gabbana, among others. Martin Katz was the only independent American designer selected for the inaugural edition of GPHJ. “I was the only independent American designer invited to attend,” says Katz, “So, that was a bit of a ‘pinch-me’ moment.”
An international jury of collectors, journalists, and experts recognized the year’s most outstanding achievements across several categories: Design, Heritage, Savoir-Faire, Gemstone, Emerging Talent, and a Public Prize, voted both online and during the Monaco exhibition. Each house presented a masterpiece, an exceptional creation where the beauty of the stones met innovation and technical virtuosity.
Katz presented a set of Diamond Bow “Anniversary” Pins, each featuring 1,069 white diamonds and a one-of-a-kind pair of No-Oil Colombian Emerald and Diamond Pinwheel earrings. “This is our second year at the Grand Prix,” he explains. “I have a lot of clientele in Monte Carlo. Seeing the wealth of the world in an environment that’s so safe that big jewelry is worn everywhere is really fun to see.”
