Every Kashmiri wedding has its own story, but all share a common thread of the “wazwan”, a famed feast of slow-cooked meats, shared platters and centuries-old culinary craftsmanship. Behind the white tented halls at a recent wedding in Srinagar — the main city in Indian-administered Kashmir — lies an army of workers whose livelihoods depend on the territory’s elaborate marriage traditions.
“We don’t just cook wazwan — we live it,” said head chef Ghulam Nabi Palo, leading a team of dozens of “wazas”, or chefs, their assistants, spice suppliers and kitchen hands. “For us, every feast is a blend of devotion and livelihood.” The recipes, preparation, and serving rituals have been passed down through generations. The religious ceremony forms the spiritual heart of a Kashmiri Muslim wedding.
A Kashmiri chef or ‘waza’ chopping lamb ribs for a traditional local feast known as ‘wazwan’.
A Kashmiri chef or ‘waza’ preparing lamb balls for a traditional local feast known as ‘wazwan’.
A Kashmiri transgender artist dancing during a wedding celebration in Srinagar.
A Kashmiri artist dancing during a wedding celebration in Srinagar.
Kashmiri head chef Ghulam Nabi Palo preparing a local feast known as ‘wazwan’ in a traditional ‘trami’ platter for wedding guests in Srinagar.
Kashmiri chefs or ‘wazas’ pounding meat as they prepare a traditional local feast known as ‘wazwan’ during a wedding celebration in Srinagar.
Traditional anklet bells adorned by a Kashmiri artist as he dances during a wedding celebration in Srinagar.
Kashmiri chefs or ‘wazas’ cooking a traditional local feast known as ‘wazwan’ for wedding guests in Srinagar.
Kashmiri chefs or ‘wazas’ changing into fresh clothes before serving a traditional local feast known as ‘wazwan’ to wedding guests in Srinagar.
Kashmiri chefs or ‘wazas’ serving a traditional local feast known as ‘wazwan’ to wedding guests in Srinagar.
A Kashmiri chef or ‘waza’ serving a traditional local feast known as ‘wazwan’ to wedding guests in Srinagar.
A Kashmiri bride sitting inside a decorated tent during her wedding in Srinagar.
But it is the tapestry of customs that bring together the community in a celebration of faith and cultural heritage. The whole wedding industry provides employment for entire communities. Beyond the kitchen, workers decorate the venue, and servers manage seating arrangements. Artists draw intricate henna designs on the hands and feet of the bride.
A Kashmiri bride sitting inside a decorated tent during her wedding in Srinagar.
A wedding photographer taking pictures of a Kashmiri groom in Srinagar.
A Kashmiri chef or ‘waza’ smoking a hookah pipe as he rests while cooking a traditional local feast known as ‘wazwan’ during a wedding celebration in Srinagar.
A Kashmiri chef or ‘waza’ carrying a bowl of minced lamb while cooking a traditional local feast known as ‘wazwan’ during a wedding celebration in Srinagar.
Workers decorating a wedding venue in Srinagar.
A decorated tent during a wedding celebration in Srinagar.
Wedding guests gathered inside a decorated tent as they wait for food in Srinagar.
Workers decorating a wedding venue in Srinagar.
Kashmiri copperware sets called ‘trami sarposh’ that are traditionally used to serve the local feast ‘wazwan’, laid out during a wedding celebration in Srinagar.
A Kashmiri couple sitting inside a decorated tent for their wedding in Srinagar.
A bride looking at her hands decorated with henna during her wedding celebration in Srinagar.
Kashmiri head chef Ghulam Nabi Palo (left) giving instructions to his team as they prepare food platters for a traditional local feast known as ‘wazwan’ during a wedding celebration in Srinagar.
Transgender singers, a traditional feature of many Indian weddings, bring music and entertainment. South Asia has a long history of people assigned male at birth but who identify as female — a community recognised as members of the third gender but who still face severe discrimination. For transgender singer Bisma, performing at weddings gives her a moment of inclusion. “It is a moment of belonging,” Bisma said. “Every smile in the crowd reflects my pride in being seen.” – AFP
