Your questions about chemical peels answered
What is the best chemical peel?
Our top spot goes to the Elemis papaya enzyme peel, thanks to its creamy consistency and ability to work on a range of different skin issues and concerns. From dry/dehydrated skin, to uneven texture, acne-prone skin and the first signs of ageing, I noticed a visible improvement to the look and feel of my skin after just one use. If you’re looking for the best budget-friendly at-home chemical peel, The Ordinary’s AHA 30% + BHA 2% peeling solution has a potent blend of ingredients, all while being under the £10 mark. And for beginners, Dr Dennis Gross’ daily peels are fuss-free and mess-free and available in three different strengths, enabling you to tailor them to your exact needs and skin type.
How I tested chemical peels
- Ease of application: I considered a range of different factors when applying each formulation, including whether doing so was messy, if the peels required a flannel or cotton pad to apply, and whether the dosage or recommended application time was correct or if more guidance was required.
- Performance: I considered whether or not the peels made any real change to my skin when testing. Specifically, I looked for whether or not I saw a marked improvement in my skin’s texture and brightness, with a goal of a smoother, glowier complexion. In order to really see this, I took before and after photos to compare.
- Sensitivity: With AHAs and BHAs common in chemical peels, I was aware of the increased chances of irritation and redness. With this in mind, formulas that used additional ingredients to negate this sensitivity were favoured. Similarly, any that were especially harsh didn’t receive my seal of approval.
Are the results from at-home chemical peels permanent?
Speaking to The Independent, Dr Lauren Jamieson, medical doctor and founder of Scotland-based clinic, Dr Lauren medical aesthetics, confirmed: “No, the results from at-home chemical peels are not permanent – they’re temporary and cumulative, meaning they require regular, ongoing use to maintain improvements.”
She added: “They act on the outermost layer of the skin – the stratum corneum – which stimulates some turnover of skin cells, but don’t penetrate to a depth that would cause permanent tissue remodelling.”
Can chemical peels be used on sensitive skin?
Just like any other skincare product you buy, the type of at-home chemical peel that will work best for you will depend on your skin type. Those with sensitive skin who often suffer from irritation or redness will want to steer clear of particularly strong peels with high percentages of acids, for example.
Can at-home chemical peels remove dark spots?
“Yes, at-home chemical peels can help fade dark spots,” notes Dr Jamieson. She caveats that the effect is “gradual and results depend on several key factors,” including the depth of pigmentation, consistency of treatments, and consistency of SPF application – “given that the sun is the main cause of dark spots.”
Can at-home chemical peels remove scarring?
No, at-home chemical peels cannot remove scars. This is because “they do not penetrate beyond the top layer of the skin so they cannot make changes in the dermis, where most scarring occurs”, says Dr Jamieson. That said, she notes that they can improve the appearance of some scarring, in particular “mild post-acne marks and surface-level textural irregularities.”
Is it safe to do at-home chemical peels?
There’s no reason to let the word chemical put you off, as the majority of at-home chemical peels aren’t as strong as salon treatments, yet they are able to provide similarly impressive results.
As Dr Jaimeson puts it: “When safe formulations are used appropriately over a period of time, there can be cumulative clinical benefit from the use of at-home peels, especially when used with a wider skincare regime.”
f you are completely new to chemical exfoliants, it may be worth doing a patch test on an area of skin before you proceed to apply it all over your face. You may also experience a mild tingling or warmth on your skin if you haven’t dabbled with acids and exfoliants in your skincare routine before. However, over time, your skin will start to build up a tolerance, which will even allow you to increase the concentration of acids, if desired.
Ingredients to look for in an at-home chemical peel
While your skin doesn’t literally peel off when you use a chemical peel, the formula will remove dead skin cells. There are a few key ingredients you’ll want to look out for when you shop for an at-home chemical peel – namely AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHAs (beta hydroxy acids). These chemicals help with skin cell renewal and turnover, leaving you with significantly smoother and softer skin. By sloughing away dead skin cells, they are especially effective at improving everything from dry, flaky skin to fine lines, wrinkles and blemishes.
Other ingredients you’ll want to keep an eye out for include Vitamin C, niacinamide and retinol, which also work to brighten and improve skin texture.
How to care for your skin after an at-home chemical peel
Regardless of which at-home chemical peel you use, it is incredibly important that you protect what is essentially a brand-new layer of skin by following up your chosen peel with a facial SPF. Whether you have sensitive skin or not, I’d recommend you don’t use any other skincare products with actives in them on the days or evenings when you apply your at-home chemical peel, either. Doing so could lead to increased sensitivity and even skin damage. All you really need is a nourishing or hydrating moisturiser afterwards.
For more anti-ageing actives, read our guide to the best retinol creams and serums
